Texas Hill Country Gems... Brrr

The outside temperature was 33 degrees Fahrenheit (just above freezing) last night and it is about 41 degrees (6 C) in the trailer when I wake up.  This is the coldest it has been since we moved in last week, and since we arrived in the US five weeks previously.  

The whole of the last week it was in the 60’s and 70’s (17 to 25 C) during the day, and no lower than the high 40’s (9 C) at night, which encouraged us to take the plunge, and actually move into our 5th wheel, aka the Jet. 

There is an electric fire and we bought a little fan heater for extra heat.  They kept us cosy at night and in the mornings (which is about the only time we are actually in the trailer – the rest of the time we are out and about, or in the main house).  

We were even more delighted to discover there is a propane gas-fired heating system that blows warm air from the underbelly of the Jet, and we began using it Sunday morning, reassured that it would kick in thermostatically and ensure that the pipes would not freeze should things get that bad. So when the temperatures started dropping on Saturday, we decided to brave staying on in the Jet, rather than moving back into Lee and Carolyn’s house.

But this morning it is not working.  Only cold air is blowing around the trailer.  Hoping there might be a dramatic change in the elements I stay in bed after Richard leaves to drive the 30 miles to the nearest Department of Public Safety which is the only place you can get a Texas Driver’s Handbook, needed to attempt the Driver’s License Test.  By 11 am the outside temperature has risen to 37 (3 C), and the fire and fan heater do not raise the inside temperature to more than 42 degrees – a mere 5 Centigrade.  We left the cold climate of Scotland for warmer climes and ended up in an icebox!

The words "It's cold out there, campers" rang in my ears.  We had just watched Groundhog Day and I hoped I was not entering some kind of nightmare... Finally I pull my clothing into the bed to heat up before dressing. I mentally vow that next winter will be spent in Florida…

How quickly I had forgotten that only two days previously we were both excited and happy to be actually doing what we had come to the States for – enjoying its scenic wonders.

Among all the to-ing and fro-ing that was going on setting up our new home, Richard and I set aside the time to do some walking.  In Scotland we would walk for pleasure at weekends whenever the weather allowed.  We could stroll along the prom in Helensburgh, or take a 3 mile hike up the back of the town, across farmland, through woods and along old bridlepaths, or take a short trip in the car and climb hills to our hearts’ content.  But we soon discovered that the public access rights that exist in Scotland are not the same as in the USA.

Under Scots law, trespass is a civil wrong, and can sometimes also constitute a criminal offence, e.g. trespass which breaches poaching laws.  However, the legislation that established trespass as an offence was amended by the Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003 and established universal access rights to most land and inland water.  It is important to note that people only have these rights if they exercise them responsibly by respecting people's privacy, safety and livelihoods, and Scotland's environment. The Scottish Outdoor Access Code provides detailed guidance on the responsibilities of those exercising access rights and of those managing land and water and sets out a number of exceptions where the land access right doesn't apply:

• Houses and gardens, and non-residential buildings and associated land;
• Land in which crops are growing;
• Land next to a school and used by the school;
• Sports or playing fields when these are in use and where the exercise of access rights would interfere with such use;
• Land developed and in use for recreation and where the exercise of access rights would interfere with such use;
• Golf courses (but you can cross a golf course provided you don't interfere with any games of golf);
• Places like airfields, railways, telecommunication sites, military bases and installations, working quarries and construction sites; and
• Visitor attractions or other places which charge for entry.

In the US, trespass law is different from State to State, and land ownership and the rights of people to walk on privately owned ground are viewed more harshly. In Texas, with more than 90% of land in private ownership, the only real place you can walk for pleasure without fear of being confronted by a rifle toting property owner, is on purposely designated walking trails on land owned by the City, the County, the State, or the Federal Government.  

State and National Parks provide public camping grounds, so these will suit us very well when we finally fledge from our Texas Hill Country nest.

The Hill Country area is interesting geologically in that the landscape of escarpments, canyons and tall hills was formed from the dissolution of soluble rocks such as limestone, and is characterized by underground springs and collapsed caves.  The terrain is punctuated by a large number of limestone and granite rocks and boulders and a thin layer of topsoil, which makes the region very dry and prone to flash flooding. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Texas_Hill_Country

Native types of vegetation are yucca, prickly pear cactus, the dry South-western tree known as the Texas live oak, and cedar scrub (though what is locally called cedar is actually ashe juniper), visible in this photo Richard took of some Texas longhorn cattle, famous for their unusual coloring and of course their long horns. 

This cedar is reviled by the locals for taking over the land and is heavily cut back, but the stringy bark from the full grown tree is the only material the golden-cheeked warbler can use to make its nest, so County Preserves are managing the trees to ensure that there is a sustainable habitat for these migratory birds.

We must say we were very impressed by the two collapsed grottoes we visited last week, when the sun was shining and it was warmer.  Both sit at the end of little canyons/creeks that feed into the Pedernales River, which eventually flows into Lake Travis. 

The canyon is made up of 3 layers, the bottom is sand, the middle is shale, and top is limestone.  Water erosion of the sand and shale over millions of years has caused the heavier upper limestone layer to collapse creating around 15 grottoes.  To get to the largest of these, called Hamilton Pool Preserve, we descended an 80 ft drop from the Ashe Juniper/Live Oak Savannah, to where the creek runs very slowly, a milky green in colour.  In the summer thick tree cover forms an umbrella that helps retain moisture, and causes a semi-tropical terrarium effect, supporting up to 25 species of trees and a wide variety of plant life.  In February there are no leaves to shade the sun, and we can see the enormous limestone rocks beside the gnarled roots of grey cypress trees which poke up through the shimmering water like slithering snakes… well, my imagination has been fired by a notice warning that there are 9 species of snakes in the area… need I say most of them are poisonous?

Eventually the creek leads to the enormous grotto, a semicircular cave, with a stunning 45 ft waterfall that never dries up and is a popular place for people to come and sunbathe, or cool down in the shady cave and in the aquamarine water. 

The West Cave Preserve contains another grotto only a few miles further, on the other side of the Pedernales River, but it is totally different.  The waterfall is much less spectacular, in fact, most of the water runs through the lichens and ferns that hang like curtains from the limestone overhang.

I feel slightly disappointed after seeing the majesty of the Hamilton Pool.  However, a surprise couple of treats are in store.  Our guide has us climb into the cave behind the pool and we are astonished at the scene of moss and lichens sparkling with water in the sun.  Whereas the grey limestone was mostly bare in the cave of Hamilton Pool, this cave is alive with lush greens and totally enchanting.

Over time, the calcium carbonate that is continuously leached out of the overhang by the dripping water has created pillars of travertine, a rock that looks as shiny as mud but is dry to the touch.  In this picture moss and maidenhair fern grows on the side of the travertine that is showered continuously by the springs overhead. 

The West cave is also a semicircular grotto but travertine and fallen limestone has divided it into several areas.  Another part of the cave has an area of stalactites and stalagmites that are actively growing.  You can watch the drips fall 7 ft directly from mud coloured stalactites the size of slim fingers into little polyp shaped stalagmites at your feet.  Absolutely fascinating. 

But the most amazing thing is a tiny little brown bat, clinging to a dry part of the cave roof.  The guide tells us that large numbers of Mexican fruit bats will come and roost in the cave later in the spring.

Our maiden trip with Benny and the Jet (the truck towing the 5^th wheel) will be to the Pedernales State Park sometime in March.  We should have had enough practice towing and passed our driving tests by then.  We are looking forward to more adventures there.  Hopefully the weather will improve but if not, before we go, we shall ensure that the gas bottles are full and the under belly heating does not let us down!