A Bridge Too Far

It's been a long time since I've put fingers to keyboard and written about our travels. Somehow life just got in the way – and that's not a complaint. Our RVing adventures, as this blog is entitled, simply ground to a temporary halt. We have settled for a more sedentary lifestyle over the winters, enjoying the winter warmth of Coolidge, Arizona, and the social aspect of staying in one community. By choosing to work over the winter season and summers at Elk Pines Resort, Indian Skies RV Resort and Wagonhammer RV park in Idaho last year, our options for travel have been somewhat curtailed for the last couple of years. But this summer we are back on the road again.

Our desire to see more of the USA's National Parks dictated our route. We drove westwards out of Arizona into Utah, a natural stopover as we headed northwards, and another opportunity to visit Canyonlands National Park (NP). This time we wanted to explore The Needles, in the southern part of this immense park. We had missed this area when we visited Utah and so many iconic national parks three summers previously. (You can read about those adventures here: Rockslicking Granny, The Subway, Bryce Canyon).

The massive red and white topped pinnacles of The Needles did not disappoint

and we enjoyed our hike, though the sudden change in altitude from Arizona to Utah (some 5000 feet/1700 metres higher) did slow us down.

 As we were staying at Old West RV Park in Monticello for four nights, we decided to explore the surrounding area a little further. Firstly we visited Natural Bridges National Monument. We had encountered rock arches – formed by wind, near Moab, but never seen bridges.

Natural bridges are formed by water – meandering rivers that carve out rock as they circle back on themselves. Over time the river breaks through and takes a shorter course under its newly formed bridge. We hiked to the bottom of the riverbed to take in the majesty of Sipapu Bridge.

Sipapu Bridge

With a height of 220 feet, a span of 268 feet, 31 feet width and thickness of 53 feet (divide by 3.3 to get an approximate metre measurement) it's the second largest natural bridge in the world, and pretty awe inspiring.

The Kachina Bridge hike was too daunting afterwards, so we drove on to next, the oldest - Owachomo bridge. Increased erosion means this bridge is only half the height and much narrower (only 9 feet) than the other two in the park, but prettier to photograph, and a much easier hike!

Owachomo Bridge

We also wanted to visit Hovenweep National Monument. We have previously visited other sites of the ancestral Pueblo people, who lived in what is called the four corners area (bridging the corners of the states of Utah, Colorado, New Mexico and Arizona) thousands of years ago. They lived in pit dwellings, such as we visited in Chimney Rock National Monument, Colorado; in Pueblos - communities of mud/rock built housing, entered through roof tops and via ladders, such as in Taos, New Mexico, and in Coolidge, Arizona; or in cliff dwellings – part cave and part rock-walled communities, hidden away up in sheer cliffs, accessible by ladders or stepping stones from mesa tops, such as we experienced at Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado. The skills of the builders is breathtaking. 

Hovenweep is spectacular because it bears witness to all of the above, plus exceptionally tall stone built towers located over crevices in cliff tops.

Our trip to Hovenweep began with a scenic drive down Montezuma Canyon, some 35 miles of winding dirt road, easily handled by our sturdy truck Benny. However, we had not anticipated that the canyon's tributary rivers, which the road criss-crossed several times along the way, would be flowing with fast running water. As Benny's left front wheel dropped into a deep hole, which brought the water level up to the running board, I had visions of being swept away, or perhaps stuck in the river without cell phone contact. Richard's cool-headed four-wheel driving meant the back left wheel also hit the same hole, but Benny kept on moving. 

Perhaps not such a big deal for those used to this kind of terrain, but for us it was a first time experience. Incidentally we saw not a single other vehicle on that road the whole hour and half we took to drive it. I should also add that it is very common for no bridges to cross such rivers, as more often than not, in the dry high desert, they are completely dry.

Despite my panic attack, this part of our day trip was definitely worth it. We enjoyed spotting cliff dwellings and pictographs galore,

and even a really well preserved Kiva (a below ground ceremonial meeting place), that showed just how cleverly interlocking beams could hold up a thatched/mud roof.

Kiva Entrance

Yet again, proof of the skills of the ancestral people. Shame they felt no need to build bridges! 

This cute little topographic map shows you the numerous places to visit in Utah. And we will be back again to visit a few more!